Got up at 5am, checked one spot that had been firing the day before. Pick up two groms hitch hiking down the bush sided road. get the the trail, they thank us, and bolt down the trail. Word must have got out, there was 15 out by 6am. The reef chiefs were taking their share, and there wsnt many good ones coming through. decided to head for a lesser known spot thats even harder to access.
Drive down the back road the the highway, hit a roo. Bend my bonnet, front bar, number plate and snap the grille in half. Im fkn spewing, but i move on in the hope of pumping waves. 40 minutes later, pull up, walk down the trail, and the wind has swung onshore and the swell is messy as fk! Im peaking by this stage, but trying my hardest to contain my anger.
I head to a corner where the wind will be OK, and the swell should be holding at least 1-2ft at best. I bolt down the trail with doc following, get around the trees to sneak a look down the valley. I see lines stacked to the horizon, its SOLID and Clean as whistle! I bolt back up the trail to see doc still walking, "Dont bother looking, Lets get on it!"
We gear up and start the hike on the trail, i get to the shore 5 minutes before Dee and Doc arrive, Im trying to contain myself and shoot a few, im to amped and suit up. Just as im donning my helmat cam, They arrive. I get out there and score a few smokers in the next 30 minutes, before doc froths out and suits up.
We spend the next 45 minutes surfing by ourselves before the Quinn brothers, and there two mates from there home town, plus howie from ACS rock up. They watch for another 30 minutes, then hit it. Morgs shows up 10 minutes later with two indigenous groms, and they hit it too. We spend the next 3-4 hours with consistent spitting kegs on tap, Hooting and calling each other into wave after wave, chatting and just beaming off the Amping vibe every one is producing.
Its the best ive surfed it in ages, and the least crowded ive seen it in 10 years. Morgs says "Its a day to remember" and i will for a long time to come.